Three weeks on WezTerm and one of my remaining issues was not being able to press ¿ in Emacs. Activated the Kitty keyboard protocol and installed kkp in Emacs and problem fixed and... now I can use the "super" (Windows key) modifier without interfering with Gnome.

I am still uneasy at how far I'm deviating from defaults and always-installed software, but OTOH, I'm happy.

(I still reach for the mouse, but I'm doing a good amount of keyboard copying and pasting in the shell!)